| Other web Sites Harmonica Blues Harmonica Amps Harmonica Links Harmonica Pages |
![]() |
| • Years | |
| · 1992 · 1993 · 1994 · 1995 · 1996 · 1997 |
· 1998 · 1999 · 2000 · 2001 · 2002 · 2003 |
|
astatic microphone ( golden eagle) |
|
Astatic 636L-SE Silver/Steel Cord, 4 pin, CB Mic NEW |
|
NEW ASTATIC 636L CB HAM MIC MICROPHONE 4 PIN 636 L DEAL |
|
Connex CB 4600HP Turbo W/Astatic 636 Mic & Echo board! |
|
ASTATIC AMERICAN FLAG CB HAM MIC MICROPHONE 636L 4PIN |
|
ASTATIC 636L SE SILVER EDITION CB HAM MIC MICROPHONE |
|
ASTATIC STARS N STRIPES CB HAM MIC MICROPHONE 636L 4PIN |
|
ASTATIC RD104E ROAD DEVIL CB HAM MIC MICROPHONE 4 PIN |
|
NEW ASTATIC D104M6B CB HAM MIC MICROPHONE 4 PIN D104 |
|
Astatic 575 M-6 Hand Micriphone " MINT " |
|
PHONO NEEDLE Magnavox Micromatic Sears ASTATIC N307-SD |
|
Astatic D104 lollipop CB Ham Radio Power Mic wired RS |
|
Astatic 636L-SE Silver/Steel Cord, 4 pin, CB Mic NEW |
|
The Complete Astatic Mic Wiring Guide On CD |
|
The Complete Astatic Mic Wiring Guide On CD |
|
Astatic 1104 C Base Microphone *MINT IN BOX* |
|
Astatic 636L-SE Silver/Steel Cord, 4 pin, CB Mic NEW |
|
Astatic 636 Chrome CB Mic 4 pin fits Cobra Uniden |
|
Vintage Astatic Silver Eagle Microphone - Nice |
|
Astatic D-104 Mic, T-UG8 Stand, 5 Pin Male VGC Used |
|
Astatic D-104 Mic, T-UG8 Stand, 5 Pin Female VGC Used |
|
Great quality cable for Astatic JT-30 vintage harp mic |
|
Turner RK56 Cb Radio microphone Switch Also Astatic 636 |
|
Astatic GN20VP-RSTK Gooseneck Condenser Microphone 20" |
|
Vintage D-104 Microphone with Astatic T-UG8 stand |
|
Astatic 77A Vintage Dynamic Cardoid Microphone |
|
Vintage ASTATIC Microphone &Stand D-104 Chrome No Eagle |
|
Astatic 636L-SE Silver/Steel Cord, 4 pin, CB Mic NEW |
|
VERY NICE ASTATIC JT-30 MICROPHONE |
|
ASTATIC EAGLE MICROPHONE NO RESERVE VINTAGE |
|
Vintage Astatic Microphone, Model no. D - 104 |
|
NEW Astatic D104 M6 Power Mic w/ Battery 4 or 5 pin |
|
4 Pin Mic Plug Galaxy Cobra Connex Uniden Astatic Mics |
|
Astatic D104 Original MC 320 Mic Cartridge |
|
VINTAGE CB ASTATIC MICROPHONE |
|
ANTIQUE THE ASTATIC CORP MICROPHONE STAND MODEL D-104 |
|
ASTATIC D-104 Lollipop Microphone Head |
|
Astatic 636L-SE Silver/Steel Cord, 4 pin, CB Mic NEW |
|
ASTATIC D-104 MICROPHONE WITH SIDE AND BOTTOM KEY |
|
New ~ Astatic 4-Pin 636L CB Microphone NEW ~ GREAT DEAL |
[Previous Message]
[Next Message]
[Previous in Thread]
[Next in Thread]
[Start of Thread]
[End of Thread]
Dejon Hamann wrote:
> I'm running a Green bullet (sometimes a Shure 58) into an old 60s
Fender
> Bandmaster head (silverface). I've got 2 single 12 cabs (one half
open, 1
> closed) set about 10 feet away.
>
> I was just wondering how I could get a dirtier, nicely overdriven sound
out
> of this configuration? The clean sound is wonderful. I've
got a Boss Blues
> Driver, but I hate the simulation - Real overdrive is the sh-t,
but this
> amp doesn't have any. And it's usually impossible to get a decent
volume
> with articulation on the overdrive channel of my Hot Rod Deluxe
anywaze. I
> love amp heads because I can adjust the amp settings and not have to
stand
> right on the speaker! Any Advice would be greatly
appreciated.
>
> The bandmaster does have a Normal and Vibrato channel - maybe I could
get an
> A-B box and do something internally to the Bandmasters Normal channel
so it
> would overdrive? That thought just hit me - not sure if it's
plausable.
>
Try this, it will take the services of a qualified amp tech. Take
these
instructions to your tech and see if he can perform these steps. Check
that
filter caps, other componets, etc. are all A-OK.
1. "Blackface" the phase inverter circuit.
2. Install a 5R4 rectifier
3. Change the power supply dropping resistors to a pair of 10K (around
that
value), 3 watt minimum, you're shooting for about 310 volts of B+ feeding
the
phase inverter plate resistors, and 260 volts B+ feeding the pre-amp
plate
resistors. You may not get the voltages quite that low on a silverface
amp.
Decide which channel you wanna use for harp, if you have no use for the
vibrato
effect, then do the following changes to the normal channel which will have
less
signal loss than the vibrato channel. If your vibrato channel has a
mid control
(you'll want that) then do the changes on the vibrato channel and if you
have no
use for the vibrato effect, disable the vibrato or replace "Intensity" pot
with
a true shut off type.
Pre-amp modifications:
1. Change grid leak resistor on input to a 5 meg
2. Change 1st triode plate resistor to a 470K 1 watt
3. Change 1st triode cathode resistor to a 2.7K or 3.3K bypassed with a
25/25
cap
4. Change 2nd triode plate resistor to a 330K 1 watt, leave 2nd triode
cathode
stock
5. Change slope resistor to a 56K
6. Change 250pf treble cap to a 100pf silver mica
7. Change output coupling cap to a .047 mfd 400 or 600 volt rating (it
may
already have this value)
8. Try changing the bright switch cap to a smaller value, say from 50pf to
100
pf
9. Tweak the midrange resistor with a temporary 25K pot until you find a
resistor value that coincides with the resistance value of the pot when it's
set
to tone you like. I like a very low value or a straight wire to
ground.
If you're not gonna use the vibrato effect, remove the vibrato driver tube
and
vibrato channel pre-amp tube. If you did the previous changes to the
vibrato
channel (cuz you want to use the vibrato), then remove the normal
channel
pre-amp tube.
Experiment with different pre-amp tube combinations try these in the
pre-amp
tube position:
12AY7
12DW7
5751
12AX7
For the phase inverter position try these:
12AT7
5751
12AX7
I prefer a 12AY7 in the pre-amp and a 5751 in the phase inverter
For power tubes, for more breakup and a midrangier tone use JAN Phillips 6L6
WGB
5881 (prefered)or Sovtek 5881
For more volume and headroom before breakup and more bass response try
the
various 6L6GC types, Svetlanas, JJ's, Electro-Harmonix
Bias the tubes but slightly imbalance the bias so there is about a
7-10ma
difference between tubes
Last but not least try tweaking the feedback loop resistor, try doubling
the
stock value of 820 ohms to a 1.5K, then try a 2.7K, 3.3K, etc. up to around
10K
(or temporarilly use a 10K pot), I like a 4.7K.
Consider getting different speakers, Weber now makes harp specific
speakers
(they're not listed on the website but if you ask Ted he'll take care of
you.)
Better yet build a new cab, try a pair of 8" speakers with a single 15"
speaker. Weber now makes 12 ohm speakers by special order, 3 12 ohm
speakers
wired in parallel will give you the 4 ohm impedance that a Bandmaster
requires.
Seems like a lot, but other than the speakers and power tubes, the
components
are fairly inexpensive. It seems labor intensive but a good tech could
knock
this off in an afternoon or evening.
BTW, this is the same setup I have on my Vibrolux Reverb which is very
similar
to a Bandmaster, it kicks ass for harp.
Good luck,
Don D.
P.S. if you live near me I could do the work, but I'm extremely busy at
the
moment, contact me offlist.